Hyperpigmentation: Marks, Melasma & Sun Spots
Hyperpigmentation simply means areas of skin that are darker than the surrounding skin because of excess melanin. The pigment itself is the same; what differs is what triggered it — and that difference is everything when it comes to treatment.
How pigment is made
Melanocytes, sitting in the basal layer of the epidermis, produce melanin and transfer it to surrounding keratinocytes. UV radiation, inflammation, and certain hormones all stimulate the enzyme tyrosinase, ramping up melanin output. When that production is excessive or uneven, you get visible dark spots or patches.
The main types
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) follows inflammation or injury — most commonly acne — and appears as flat brown or tan marks where a blemish healed. It fades on its own over months and responds well to brighteners plus sun protection. Melasma shows up as larger, symmetric patches (cheeks, forehead, upper lip) and is driven by a combination of hormones and light exposure; it is chronic, relapsing, and easily aggravated. Solar lentigines — sun spots or age spots — result from years of cumulative UV and tend to be well-defined and persistent.
Treating it
Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen is the foundation for all of them, because UV both causes and re-triggers pigment. For melasma specifically, a tinted mineral sunscreen containing iron oxides also helps block visible light, which plain SPF does not. On top of sun protection, tyrosinase-inhibiting ingredients — vitamin C, niacinamide, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, alpha-arbutin, kojic acid — gradually reduce pigment, and retinoids accelerate cell turnover. Results take two to three months at minimum.
A caution with melasma
Melasma is the one to handle gently. Heat, friction, strong acids, and light can all make it worse, and overly aggressive treatment frequently causes rebound darkening. A patient, gentle approach with disciplined daily (and reapplied) sun protection outperforms harsh interventions, and dermatologist guidance — including prescription options like hydroquinone used carefully — is worthwhile.
What the evidence says
Sun protection as the cornerstone of pigment treatment is well established, and research specifically shows visible light drives pigmentation in deeper skin tones (Mahmoud et al., Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2010) and that iron-oxide–tinted sunscreens add the visible-light protection plain SPF lacks. Tyrosinase-inhibiting actives — vitamin C, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid, and others — have peer-reviewed support for gradually fading pigment over 8–12+ weeks.
- Mahmoud BH, et al. Visible light induces pigmentation in skin of color. J Invest Dermatol, 2010 (peer-reviewed)
- Castanedo-Cazares JP, et al. Iron oxides in sunscreen for melasma & visible light. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 2014
- American Academy of Dermatology — Melasma & hyperpigmentation
This article is general educational information, not medical advice. Skincare needs vary from person to person. Always patch-test new products and consult a qualified professional (such as a dermatologist) for persistent or serious skin concerns.